Basic Sock Pattern - Regular Heel
Judith Newman's Modifications

Sizing Chart: http://www.lupinworks.com/knitting/sizingChart.pdf
This chart gives you information about number of stitches to cast on, how many rows to knit for the foot, etc.

Yarn: 4-ply sock yarn: 75-80% wool, 25-20% polyamide - you need the synthetic to get the wear in the heals and toes.
Brand names Variegated : Regia, Opal, Confetti, Soxx, Fortissima, Trekking, Supersocke are some of the brands for the variegated yarn.
Solids: Sisu for the solids because they have the greatest range of colours.

150 g of yarn (3 50g balls) will make 2 pairs of women’s size 7-8 socks - so I purchase 1 solid, 2 variegated

Gauge: 7.5 stitches on 2mm, 2.25mm, or 2.5 mm double pointed needles (I highly recommend bamboo needles!)
Size: to fit an 8" ankle approx.

The following pattern is for a women's shoe size 7-8.

Cuff: Cast on 68 stitches (16, 16, 16, 20 stitches on each of 4 needles)
Do K2 P2 ribbing for 12 rows

Leg: Switch to stocking stitch, redistribute stitches so you have 17 on each needle then knit for 20 rows,
decrease 1 stitch on each needle to 16 stitches, and continue knitting until desired length: 80-90 rows

Heel: Leave 32 stitches on needle 2 and 3 for instep.
put remaining 32 stitches (from needles 1 & 4) on 1 needle and work heel flap back and forth on this needle.

Regular Heel Stitch:
Row 1: sl1, *K1, sl 1* repeat from * across the needle ending with K1
Row 2: sl 1, purl across
Work in heel stitches until heel flap is about 2.25" long

Turn Heel:
Working in short rows over heel flap stitches:

Row 1: sl 1, K19, K2 together, turn
Row 2: sl 1, P9 P2 together, turn
Row 3: sl 1, K9, K2 together, turn
Row 4: sl 1, P9 P2 together, turn…

Repeat rows 3, 4 until all the "side" stitches are used and 10 stitches remain on the needle.

(Here are some detailed instructions for creating an alternate smooth heel:
http://lupinworks.com/eclecticHeel/
http://lupinworks.com/eclecticHeel/heel2/ )

Gusset: Knit 5 stitches. Add back in the spare needle and Knit the 5 remaining stitches. (This needle becomes needle 1).
Pick up 1 stitch in each slipped edge stitches along the side of the heel flap and 1 additional stitch in the instep.
Knit these stitches onto needle 1 (twisting each stitch as you knit it to make the join snug).

Work across needles 2 and 3 – the instep stitches.

Pick up 1 stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches on the other side of the heel flap and 1 extra stitch in the instep.
(This becomes needle 4) Knit these stitches then the 5 remaining heel flap stitches.
Needles 1 and 4 should have the same number of stitches.

Knit one row.

Foot: Continue in plain knitting on these 64 stitches until the foot is the desired length –
approximately 7" (or 50 rows) for a ladies size 8 shoe.

Toe: Decrease Row:

Needle 1: work to last 3 stitches, K2 together, K1
Needle 2: K1 K2 together, Knit to end
Needle 3: work to last 3 stitches, K2 together, K1
Needle 4: K1 K2 together, Knit to end

*Knit 2 rows and repeat Decrease Row* — Repeat until you have 12 stitches on each needle.
Then *Knit 1 row, and repeat Decrease Row* – Repeat until you have 9 stitches on each needle.
Finally do Decrease Rows until you have 6 stitches on each needle.
Do decrease on Needle 1 – that will give you 5 stitches on that needle.

Graft Toe: Use Kitchener Stitch: http://lupinworks.com/knitting/kitchener/

Tip: Since I count rows and don't measure inches/cm, I use a loose thread to mark off rows as I go.
When I have ~ 20 rows knit, I pick up a stitch in row 1 (row immediately after the ribbing) and in every 10th row after that. That way I don't have to go back to the beginning to count how many rows I have, I can tell by how many rows I've marked as I go along.
I also pick up a stitch when I do the first decrease on the gusset so I can tell which is the decrease row; and I mark the row decreases the same way. Once I'm finished I just pull the thread out and there's no indication that I was counting rows!