Here are the original links (neither seems to be working): and



I (Flor, the woman who posted this) receive  many many e-mails from knitters asking me about the heel they  see in my socks' pics. I'll try to explain here the way I  make it, that I'll call "the eclectic heel",  because it combines a flap with the short-row technique.

No, it's not  my invention, neither unvention. I saw it in a picture of a  sock online on a German site. It was just a sample sock, no  caption about its construction, no source, no name, just the  pic and the yarn description. I'm still not sure if I figured  it out "correctly", but I've been very pleased with  the results. And interesting that it works the same as the  regular short-row heel. It can be done exactly the  same way, no matter you're knitting your socks cuff down or  toe up.

heel 1
heel 2
heel 3  

Exactly same construction, shown  cuff-down at left, and toe-up at right

I'll transcript  here the text of the e-mail I wrote to explain it  to a cyberfriend. It's a generic explanation  based on her sock project, so according the # of  sts she had on needles. Some indications are  given for different sizes.

ATTENTION:  The directions are done for knitting on 2 circular  needles, placed in "profile mode". And wrapped  sts are worked as regular sts. The wraps form a nice  ridge.

I don't use a circular needle - I just put half of the stitches on one of the double pointed needles, leaving the other half of the stitches on the needles they're on - since I knit using 5 needles - four each holding the same number of stitches (usually 16 each), I just have to place the stitches from 2 of the needles on one needle and work the heel from there.

I won't  mention right or left directions. I'm a strong  leftie and work from left to right. But socks are  done in the round and are symmetrical. Working on  68 sts, heel will be done on 34 sts (for me it's usually 32, since I use 64 stitches for a lady's sock). Start the  heel flap at beg of a new row. You'll work it  with just one circ needle. If you prefer, you can  work it using 2 DPNs. See I use ratio instead of  measurements:

52 sts - 8 or 10  rows flap

56 - 10 or 12 rows  flap

60 - 12 rows flap

64 - 12/14 rows  flap

68 - 14 rows flap

68 is your #, and  you will work the flap on 34 sts. At beg of a new  round, K34. WS: P34 Repeat until you have 12 rows  of st st, finishing on a WS row. Start the short  rows shaping: I leave 8 sts in middle. I think  you should leave 10 sts 'cause your gauge is  smaller than mine. 34 - 10 = 24/2 = 12 sts This  way, short rows will be done on each block of 12  sts of the flap edges.

Row 1 (RS): slip 1  knitwise, K21, wrap & and turn (or turn &  wrap)

Row 2 WS): slip the  wrapped st purlwise, P10, W&T

Row 3 (RS): slip  the wrapped st knitwise, K until the wrapped st  of previous row, W&T

Row 4 (WS): slip  the wrapped st purlwise, K until the wrapped st  of previous row, W&T.

I didn't know what "wrapped" meant - it means putting the wool to the opposite side - if you're knitting it means taking the wool to the back, if you're purling it means bringing the wool to the front - slipping the next stitch, then turning the sock around, slip the first "wrapped" stitch, then continue either knitting or purling the stitches to the wrapped st , knitting that stitch this time, then doing another W&T. (Need more help with "wrapping" -  or if that link doesn't work try:

Continue this way  until you had work and wrap all the sts,  finishing on a RS row. The last wrapped st on  edge will be worked only at first row in the  round. It's time to pick up the gusset sts and  work in the round. Pick up 6 sts every other row  of the flap edge plus 1 more at gusset corner.  It's time also to change the needles placement.  So, you'd better transfer 17 sts of needle 2  (upper side of foot) to a dpn. Work those 17 sts  with needle 1. To manage the sts transfer in a  comfortable way, use again a spare dpn as a  holder and place on it 17 sts of the lower  portion of foot. Start with needle 2, working 17  sts of upper portion, pick up 1 st at gusset  corner, 6 from heel flap edge and work 17 from  lower portion.

Adjust the numbers here to match the number of stitches you have - remember, I usually work with 64

Now, you'll have  your 2 circs exactly with the same # of sts,  split at bottom and up foot. Total of sts on  needle 1: 17 + 6 + 1 + 17 = 41 sts On needle 2:  17 + 1 + 6 + 17 = 41 sts.

Beg of rows are now  at bottom. Insteps decreases will be done more or  less at middle portion of each needle portion of  knitting. I suggest you to make the decreases  every 3 rd, due to the tight gauge. In the round,  needle 1:  K23, K2tog, K16 needle 2: K16,  ssk, K23 2nd and 3rd rounds: plain 4th round,  needle 1: K22, K2tog, K16 needle 2: K16, ssk, K  22. Repeat the above directions, decreasing,  until you'll have on each needle half the cast-on  # of sts: 33/34 (17 each side of the dec. line).

Continue the  foot."

This is another version of a "short row" heel:

If that link doesn't work, try this: